A New York Summer
This travelogue follows a 2023 bicycle trip around New York State. It loops from Rochester east to the Adirondack Mountains, south along the Hudson River to Lake Luzerne. It then traces Lake George, crosses Lake Champlain and follows the New York-Vermont border to the south end of Lake Champlain. It follows the Empire State Trail and Hudson south to New Paltz, where it turns west through the Catskills back toward Rochester.
Log messages come from the daily updates I sent out via e-mail to family and friends during the trip.
There is also a trio of videos from the trip: Through the Adirondacks, Down the Hudson, and Catskills and Finger Lakes. Videos take the form of montages, lacking narrative.
Contents
- 1. Whispering Winds Campgrounds, Newark, NY
- 2. Microtel, Baldwinsville, NY
- 3. Trip intermission
- 4. Some dayhikes
- 5. Visit to Tupper Lake
- 6. Test Trip
- 7. Verona Beach, Sylvan Beach, NY
- 8. Exploring Verona & Sylvan Beaches
- 9. Utica Rest Inn, Utica, NY
- 10. Eighth Lake Campground, Inlet, NY
- 11. Point Breeze Motel and Cottages, Indian Lake, NY
- 12. The Bond 1786, Warrensburg, NY
- 13. Friend's house, Day, NY
- 14. Day of rest
- 15. Hearthstone Point Campground, Lake George, NY
- 16. Roger's Rock Campground, Hague, NY
- 17. Champs RV Resort, Whitehall, NY
- 18. Moreau State Park, Queensbury, NY
- 19. Friends' house, Mechanicville, NY
- 20. St Charles Hotel, Hudson, NY
- 21. Exploring Hudson, NY
- 22. Red Fox Meadows Campsite, New Paltz, NY
- 23. 'Gunks Campground, Gardiner, NY
- 24. Visit to The Bridge over the Hudson
- 25. Hike to Hamilton Point in Minnewaska State Park
- 26. Sleepy Hollow Campground, Phoenicia, NY
- 27. Andes Hotel, Andes, NY
- 28. Tall Pines Campground, Bainbridge, NY
- 29. Country Hills Campground, Marathon, NY
- 30. Fillmore Glen State Park, Moravia, NY
- 31. Hejamata Campground, Port Byron, NY
- 32. Home!
- A. Cue Sheets & Resources
- B. Maps
1. Whispering Winds Campgrounds, Newark, NY
Since Opal and I have deferred moving to the Netherlands to 2024, there was time to do a bike trip this summer. I started today.
Getting away is much needed. Between Opal's surgery, yard sales, wedding at Ramblewood, doing some work on the house, trying to figure out how to help folks in Republican-controlled states who are struggling to escape, plus just trying to push back against the anti-Trans madness... I need a break. I feel a bit guilty; I could use this time to try to fight or help others. But if I burn out, I'm helpful to no one. So, walkabout.
I got started late today, running some last-minute errands and getting a DOT physical to get New York DMV off my back (commercial drivers need physicals every 2 years, and they've been e-mailing me about it expiring soon). I finally got on the bike about 12:20.


The ride followed the same route as last fall, but was much hotter and lacked autumn colors. There was also more activity on the canal.





As I got into Macedon, I started encountering shady sections of trail which were noticeably cooler to ride in than the open sunny berm along prior sections. I also began seeing blackberry bushes along the trail, but they were not producing.
The sun looked weird all day today, there being smoke in the atmosphere again. Nearing Newark, the light filtering through the trees was weak and had a sunset quality, even thought it was before 4PM. And there were more blackberry bushes—and these had a few ripe berries, so I stopped to eat a few.







I resisted an ice-cream shop in Newark, and made it to the campground around 4. The campground is okay. The tent site is in a field, so I'm glad I arrived late. But the bathhouse is in great condition, and there's a pool, alongside which I'm writing this journal entry.



2. Microtel, Baldwinsville, NY
Around the time I finished yesterday's journal, the sun disappeared behind haze and clouds. I walked around the campground a bit, then got ready for bed, read a bit of Christopher Moore's You Suck, then went to sleep. I was wakened a bit before 4 when a brief burst of rain came through, though winds never went wild. The tent did fine.
I woke up again around 7 and started my day, getting on the road about 8:40. First destination: a store, to buy a hairbrush and a hair cap (to keep my seat dry during rains) which didn't make it into the final pack.

Those acquired, I continued down the canal path to Clyde, NY. This was mostly new to me; when I cycled the canal with PTNY circa 2005, we took roads and routed via Geneva because this section wasn't complete. And when I came through westward in 2017 I just took NY-31. The paths are stone dust, which has its cost, but the benefit is flatness and better shade.
I passed the Newark dry dock, and at one of the marinas, I passed the yacht Inspiration, which I took a picture of yesterday in Fairport. It was stopping to fuel up.




After a burger at the Blockhouse Diner in Clyde, I diverged from the canal and headed northeast on-road to Duck Lake, hoping to beat forecasted squalls. Unfortunately, when I arrived they didn't have any campsites open. I continued on, hoping to stop at Sunset Park on Cross Lake. When I had better signal, I called ahead but although they had some tent sides, they were concerned given the forecast they would be waterlogged. The next best option was a Microtel in Baldwinsville, a 20 mile ride from where I was.
Baldwinsville is a nice little town on the Seneca River, which was used as the realignment for the Barge Canal in 1912. Downtown seems to be thriving.
Thankfully, the squalls never found me and I arrived dry at Microtel, which is in a little splotch of modern commercial development on the outskirts. Not having much interesting here, I opted to return to town for dinner.
So after a shower I had dinner at the Angry Smokehouse, which overlooks the canal/marina—there's also an Angry Garlic in town, I'm guessing owned by the same folks. I had some smoked chicken, which was ok but I think I'm spoiled by Dinosaur and Sticky Lips.
The couple eating next to me was celebrating their 31st anniversary by trying somewhere new (she was, thankfully, very happy with the food). They came up from Liverpool, near Syracuse; she said they got downpours down there—so, I guess I got lucky being a bit further north.





After dinner I walked around the marina and found Inspiration moored. I introduced myself to Paul, who recognized me from the distinct bike. His brother Joe recently acquired the ship, and are sailing it from Chicago to Chesapeake Bay, where Joe lives. Paul promised to honk at me next time one of us passes the other.



3. Trip intermission
Unfortunately, last night I became ill, spending time in the bathroom every 10-15 minutes from 2:15 until after 5 AM. On the upside, I was in a hotel rather than a campground, where this would have been more troublesome.
I spoke with Opal around the time she wakes up: I could stay another day at the Microtel and see if I recovered, or have her come get me. Figuring that even if I my gut is better by tomorrow, it'll be another day or two before stamina returns, we decided on plan B.
So I'm back in Rochester for now. The clinic around the corner thinks it's either a GI virus (viral gastroenteritis, I believe they called it) or maybe food poisoning, estimating 24-48 hours.
I'm hoping I'll feel good enough by Friday, and I can catch a train to Utica, where I was supposed to be, so I can catch the Adirondack Scenic train to Tupper Lake on Saturday morning.
On the positive side, two birds were splashing in the pond while I wrote this, and there was a pretty sunrise in Baldwinsville.


4. Some dayhikes
With continuing intermittent diarrhea, resuming seems imprudent. To mitigate the emotions about the trip interruption, Opal and I did some dayhikes to some waterfalls today.
Keuka Lake Outlet Trail







Clark Gully
There's supposed to be a waterfall, but the trail condition got worse than Opal was comfortable with, and I was worried about climbing back up given my reduced stamina.


Grimes Glen



5. Visit to Tupper Lake
With symptoms improving, but having missed the rare train that goes all the way to Tupper, Opal and I travelled there by car on the weekend. Unfortunately, after driving all the way there, I started having problems again. Although the launch was a bust, we got a nice sunset and visited a few waterfalls on the way home.
Tupper Lake Sunset






Tupper Lake

Sugar Falls


Pixley Falls




6. Test Trip
Weeks passed, problems continued, and I watched the summer slipping away. I did some solo hiking in Mendon Ponds and Durand Eastman Park, but dayhikes weren't a real solution.
Faced with losing the trip, I spoke with my therapist who helped me brainstorm. I looked at a car-based trip with day hikes, but the more I looked at it the more I realized how important the biking aspect is to whatever I get out of walkabout. So finally week, I did a 3-day ride to Hamlin Beach, Albion and back home to test the viability of riding while carrying the extra stuff necessary to cope with the GI problems. The answer is it's awkward, but possible.
However, the day before starting the test run I did a long day ride around Rochester, carrying some peanut-containing trail mix as a snack. On that ride I identified peanuts as a possible culprit. Once I started avoiding peanuts, problems stopped. Which is good, because carrying extra stuff was a hassle. I was finally ready to resume.



7. Verona Beach, Sylvan Beach, NY
I'm finally able to resume the trip. The GI troubles let up after I noticed a connection with eating peanuts—not an entirely new sensitivity, but one that's suddenly become much stronger. My guess is I got an actual GI bug (possibly norovirus), and either the aftermath makes me more sensitive (and the peanut sensitivity will go down again in time), or eating something containing peanuts at the wrong time turned up the existing peanut sensitivity, and it'll stay that way (no more peanuts for me).
So today I took Amtrak to Syracuse, feeling anxious because of all that plus worries about mechanical troubles, and being informed just yesterday that Adirondack railway is cancelling the Tupper run this weekend (flooding, they said), and I've been scrambling to reroute through Thendara and change dates. Then, less than a kilometer from the train station in Syracuse, I get to a bikeway that's a bit overgrown.
I follow it a bit, and it goes under an overpass that looks like it's probably shelter for some homeless folks. Beyond that, the pavement's all buckled. The trail gets even more overgrown, and finally just ends abruptly.




But after backtracking and getting on roads, things went okay. At 11:40 I was outside Pleasant Lake camp, which looked very remote and close to a wetlands: the kind of place that might have a lot of bugs.
I checked maps and site availability at Verona Beach, reserved a site, and continued on to here. I passed an old Episcopal church from 1821, and a cute little A-frame house. I hit a little rain, and pulled in under an awning on a defunct deli and again later at a town park to wait out the worst of it. I think it was worth it, though, because it's gorgeous here. It cleared up this afternoon, and there's a lovely, steady breeze off the lake. I've been writing this as the sun has set and dusk has gradually set in, and it's lovely.













8. Exploring Verona & Sylvan Beaches
Oneida Lake formed in the aftermath of the last ice age, and people have lived around it since. The Oneida and Onandagas lived here, and later Europeans took advantage of it too. The south shore is fertile, and the lake itself hosts a variety of fish.
There are a villages all around the lake, most going back to the late 1700s or early 1800s. Over the years the lake attracted lumber, sand, glass, leather, fishing, farming and other industries, spurred on by a connection to the Erie Canal. Since the Barge Canal (the 1912 expansion and realignment), the canal pass through the lake; the canal exits eastward here at Sylvan Beach. But these days the lake is mostly recreational, attracting a combination of cottage areas, summer tourist towns and (closer to Syracuse) suburbs for people that can afford lake property.
I see this in Sylvan Beach, which is a real architectural hodge-podge of old houses, little cottages (some improved to make them house-worthy), and a lot of restaurants catering to summer visitors (and everyone offers at least some seafood). There's also a tiny, old amusement park—no entry fee, but arcades you can lose money at, and a few small rides with a per-ride ticketing system. More like a permanent fireman's fair, somewhere you can take the kids a few hours one evening.
That whole place has the feel of Hyannis, Misquamicut, Niantic or other touristy New England shore towns—just without the salt-water smells.
Beyond exploring the town, I went for a swim, read a bit, had some ice cream, and got some chicken Parmesan for dinner. Overall, a relaxing, idle day.







9. Utica Rest Inn, Utica, NY
After playing with night photography it was off to bed. I think around midnight the first of the storms arrived, with pretty steady rains and occasional crazy downpours. It repeated several times before 7 AM, when it finished off and a hard breeze started up from the lake.
I got up and made breakfast—low areas in the campground were standing water. But my tent did well, with only an occasional drip getting through.



By the time breakfast was over and cleaned up, the steady wind had dried the tent. I was worried yesterday I'd be taking down in rain and trying to trying to get in miles between storms, but it was over by morning and there's been nothing until this evening.
It was the first time I ever had to struggle taking the tent down because of wind. I pulled the downwind stakes, and with its airfoil shape the leeward end lifted right up in the air like it was an UFO trying to launch. Thankfully, it was easy to release and extract the frame while the windward side stayed staked, and once the frame providing its shape, it just lay on the ground.

Getting on the road, the steady winds helped push me eastward through mostly flattish terrain. I had a nice lunch of a cheeseburger and apple pie at a diner called Breakfast at Tiffany's on NY-5 near Clark's Mills, NY. After a bit of nice paved bikeway into New Hartford, the rest of the journey was Stroad Hell, but I got here.




Today was also a day of weird mechanical things.
My front derailleur lost high gear, and was grumpy about middle gear. I put up with it to the end of the day, when I had time to look at it. It looks like another ferrule failed, so I'm blaming my choice of cheap Amazon ferrules. I replaced everything with new Shimano cable housing, JagWire metal ferrules with water-scraping inserts on the ends, and similar metal Shimano ones around an exposed span in the middle. Hopefully, this friggin' fixes it.
The back derailleur feels like it's resisting too. I wouldn't be surprised if that's going to need some similar rework Real Soon Now.
After arriving, I found my shoes trying to trip me. The rubber strips on the sole along the cleat were peeling loose, so I Shoe Goo'ed those down; they should be good enough to go by morning.
And then there's the hotel next door. There's a cement river between the two hotels, and the next door hotel's parking lot extends partly over the river on steel beams. But I can see below it, and the steel beams are resting on cinder blocks and some worn-out looking framing. The steel is crazy large, which actually makes me wonder if this jury-rig is supporting the whole motel.




Late in the day, Opal came out to visit me. We had a nice dinner at a nearby restaurant, and she brought supplies: a better jacket, and bike parts, including more good ferrules and the box of derailleur housing. We ran to a hardware store for a set of linesman's pliers, so I am now equipped with spare parts to overhaul derailleurs 5 times (split between the two, not both of them them 5 times). Opal really does watch out for me and go to bat for me.

10. Eighth Lake Campground, Inlet, NY
We got up early, fixed the flat front tire which had a pinhole leak. I also swapped the cable and ferrules on the rear derailleur because it was super stiff, and it just seemed prudent while I had good tools, spare parts, and rescue options handy.
It was a drizzly ride over to the train station, where Opal was waiting for me. While I was waiting to get the bike loaded on the train, she went and got a breakfast sandwich so I was properly fed before sending me off.







The train got underway about 9:30, and arrived in Thendara about 11:30. The ride was drizzly to start, but it lightened up as I neared Inlet, where I stopped for lunch at a panini restaurant in an old caboose. According to the owners, it was imported on a flatbed and installed on location in the 1990s, and served as a burger joint for a while. They bought it a few years ago.
Also in Inlet, I stopped in at Pedals & Petals, a combo bike store and flower/gift shop—but the emphasis is on bikes, and they do have parts and service available. I was surprised to find such a well-stocked store here.




Coming into the campground, there was an almost-tame deer grazing on the lawn next to the shower. She didn't seem to care about cars, me on the bike, or even some men walking past. There are also some near-tame mallards on the beach. I thought I was doing good getting close for photos, but I just watched the ducks walk up to and stare expectantly at some kids carrying a plastic grocery bag.
A warm shower felt good given the chilly day.
Before bed, I walked to the other end of the campground, where there was a fresh crescent moon following the already-set sun toward the horizon.






11. Point Breeze Motel and Cottages, Indian Lake, NY
It was cold last night, but I did okay with a warm shirt and jacket. On my bottom half, I layered thermal leggings, some loose-fitting athletic pants, and a sturdy set of hiking pants. In the wee hours I zipped up a rain jacket and wrapped it around the feet of my sleeping bag, and lay a windbreaker over top. It worked well enough.
Today I made it to Indian Lake. Along the way I pulled into Raquette Lake, where there's an old caboose that's now a gift shop; I don't know if it's an original Raquette Railway caboose or, like the one in Inlet, an import. There were also a couple of interesting churches, and a bunch of wetlands in the direction of Eighth Lake. A pair of canoes came though from that direction while while I was there.







Continuing on I went past the Eckford Chain Lakes, getting pictures of Utowana and Blue Mountain Lake. I took a rest in the hamlet of Blue Mountain Lake, called the campground I was targeting to see if they had space tonight, then looked for lunch. There's a new restaurant, Chef Darrell's Mountain Diner, that opened a few years ago. It's got the 50s retro look with all the chrome and steel, and decent food.



I continued east into the Hudson watershed, passing Durant lake. I stopped at the state park there to reconnoiter. I still hadn't heard back on the campground, and although I wanted to go further there was space at Durant—a bird in the hand. My phone could text but not call (not in any useful way, anyway), so I figured out a third option: I had Opal act as my dispatcher, and check on a place to stay. She arranged a room at the Point Breeze Motel and Cottages.
Finding "third options"—looking for alternate solutions when the obvious ones are all bad—is one of my weak areas, and a skill I'm trying to improve, so I feel like I succeeded today. Opal, thank you for your help with making that happen.
There's some hills between Durant and Indian Lake, but there's a lot more downhill than uphill. I stopped for ice cream at Stewart's in town, then headed to the motel.



The room is small and simple, but comes with coffee supplies and satelite TV.
The motel's grounds are lovely. There are Adirondack chairs outside the rooms and swings around the yard, including down by Indian Lake, where I'm writing this as the sunlight dwindles.
The only other guest I think is staying here is a guy from Syracuse who frequently comes here because of the peace and quiet. He uses it as a base camp for dayhiking around the area.
He had some BBQ from a place in town. If it was flat, I might have rode in to get some of my own. But it's a hilly 2 miles, so I ate some snacks out of my food bag.





12. The Bond 1786, Warrensburg, NY
After the night at the cute, rustic 1950s motel, I tried to use the coffee maker to make hot water. Not being able to figure this out, I made my breakfast over my alcohol stove, and had my usual bike-trip breakfast of bagel, oatmeal and hot chocolate.
The route was kind of hilly to start, passing across a causeway
on Indian Abanakee Lake and then taking me up
a dirt road, then onto some smaller dirt roads only to come back to
the first road, although I think it avoided some big hills in doing
so. So, I guess, win?
Finally back on NY-28, there were steady, slow climbs toward the escarpment. After stopping at the top to take a picture of Moxham Mountain and the road ahead, I coasted down the hill, topping out at 73.4km/h (45.6mph), beating out my 2021 record of 71.5km/h. I was surprised because it didn't seem like I was going that fast, maybe because I was on good road with plenty of clear area.
Despite the breakneck speed, two idiots insisted on passing me because, y'know, BIKE IZ SLOW, TRUK GO FASTR or something.





At the bottom of the hill I met up with the Hudson river and followed that pretty closely to North Creek, a hamlet that's home to Gore Ski area in winter, and some trailheads and railbiking on the old D&H rail line in the summer. It's big enough to have a Tops, a Walgreens, an Ace Hardware and a number of restaurants including Marsha's Family Restaurant, where I had lunch.
I was going to follow River Road along the Hudson, but as I left North Creek it turned to dirt, so I went back to the highway to avoid 11km (6 miles) of that nonsense. Maybe I got extra hills instead, although I think there were some on River Road too.










Arriving in Warrensburg, the Queen Village Campground had a "No Vacancy" sign out, the RV park's website had a "go RV or go home" feel, the two inns didn't look like much, so I ended up at a kitschy little place I think is called a "contact-free" hotel—almost like a DIY B&B. There's no staff, I just reserved online and when it was check-in time, there was an envelope with my key waiting for me. The place is very nice and very reasonably priced. It's even got a little sunroom with breakfasty things for tomorrow morning. Score!





13. Friend's house, Day, NY
After a good night's sleep at 1786 Bond, I set off southward. Warrensburg is on the Schroon River. The water was rushing hard and seemed high, except where it was impounded by a dam, where it was calmer but still flowing noticeably.
The Schroon lead back to the Hudson, where I crossed just below the confluence. There's an old SC&H (Saratoga, Corinth & Hudson) station the, now repurposed as another railbiking terminus.
Cycling down the west shore of the Hudson I passed a few farms, some sandy areas with a lot of pines.





Arriving in Hadley, I stopped at a park for a snack, then went on to the Bow Bridge, a rare Semi-Deck Lenticular Parabolic Bridge. Built in 1885, similar to the truss bridges commonly seen on old railways. Surviving ones are usually trapezoid shaped (including the SC&H bridge nearby), but the eye-shape design was more common in the past. What's unusual about this one is the right-of-way running through the middle, rather than being hung from the bottom, which would "hide" some of the eye-shape nature. It is believed only 3 of this type were ever built.
After that I stopped at the train station, another railbiking terminus although this one was closed today. The chair outside the station offered a big rest.
Leaving Hadley, I ascended along the Sacandaga River, crossed the Stewart's Pond bridge/dam (where there's a hell of a hydro plant), and continued on to the Great Sacandaga Lake, where some friends have offered a place to crash a few days.
I've taken advantage of their shower, washer, and dryer, and smell much better now.
















14. Day of rest
With a mellow day to rest, I spent a little time reading, and my host Mike took me out on the Great Sacandaga Lake on his boat, and taught me to drive it a little.
Mike and his wife, Di, really fed me well, too, which has been nice because my metabolism is increasing after all the recent bicycling.





15. Hearthstone Point Campground, Lake George, NY
Rather than double back to resume my route, I continued along the lake and took Saratoga County-10 to Corinth. It had some climb, but new, unseen places and a fun downhill at the end.
I then followed a road that parallels the Hudson toward Glens Falls. Along the way there was a parking area alleging "Scenic Hudson Views," so I stopped and made the short hike, where I was rewarded with a view of one of several hydro plants along this section of the Hudson.


Continuing on I stopped in Glens Falls to resupply on some groceries, then got on the Warren County Bikeway all the way to Lake George.
I stopped to talk with Tim and Rhonda (I think that was her name), who had a recumbent seat sitting out as they loaded their car. It turns out Rhonda, at 65 years old, recently started riding, and chose trike because it solves any balance issues.
Tim is originally from Buffalo, but moved to the west coast years ago, where they met. After years in Colorado, they recently moved to Buffalo and are now exploring all the new-to-them stuff in New York State. They seem like nice folk, and it was nice chatting with them.
About 50m up the trail, my bike hit 20,000km. In celebration, the trail gave me a few kilometers of low-grade hill climb.




Glens Falls is one of those places that's a circus of tourism. Arcades, mini golf, tons of hotels and touristy shops. There's a couple of sizeable ships that offer lake tours or maybe dinner. NY-9 is a 4-lane stroad through town and everything's infested with cars. It makes Sylvan Beach, where I was last Thursday, seem tame.
So, although I was planning on staying in town at the Lake George Battleground State Park, I decided to go the extra few miles to Hearthstone. NY-9N is still busy, but my site is a ways from the road.
My site was a dark little thing in a pine forest, it had been overcast a while, and it sprinkled a little as I wrote. Sprinkles continued while I made dinner.
One of my neighbors, Michael, said if I needed anything, ask. So after dinner, I asked for a charge on electronics, since he had a camper and had some light strings up. He obliged, and the timing was good given the rain, which was getting heavier; he invited me to hang out under his awning. Michael's friend Jim was just pouring some Jim Beam, peach flavor, and after a few plies I submitted to having a shot. It was pretty good.
They asked about touring and we generally "shot the shit" while their daughters, Ava and Mia, made weird noises out the camper window.
Michael came to the US from Germany 20 years ago for one year, but ended up married. The marriage didn't last but by then he had his daughter. Jim, on the other hand, grew up coming up to the area. He talked about camping on the lake's islands with his folks, and how Lake George (the town) wasn't yet a circus. Both appreciate getting away from day-to-day life and closer to nature, and think it's good to introduce their respective girls to the outdoors, camping, and nature.
We talked a little meta-politics, and how difficult it's become to have an meaningful conversation with anyone of different thoughts. I mentioned our intention to go to the Netherlands; Michael said he has retained his German citizenship, so returning there is his escape plan. It's eye-opening; most people I know with escape plans are queer or otherwise countercultural; Michael's a straight white male—but he is, nevertheless, an immigrant.
Later that night, I heard loons on the lake.








16. Roger's Rock Campground, Hague, NY
Today's ride went well. I noticed an issue with the chain, which I fixed before hitting the road. I can't see any way for it to have happened spontaneously, so I'm blaming myself for it some time in the past. The bike seems to be running well, and derailleurs have been behaving since replacing cheap ferrules.
There was a little rain just before I hit the road, so the road was wet early, gradually drying as the day went on. Early on I passed through Bolton Landing, where there was a nice stone church. Traffic declined after Bolton, and continued dwindling as I went north. There was a 5km climb over Tongue mountain, so it's good the day was only 50km (30 miles).







The hamlet of Silver Bay had YMCA conference center with a whole campus of impressive old buildings—the sort of buildings that harken back to the days of the mountain houses.
There was also a general store, where I stopped to get a sandwich for lunch.










Arriving at the campsite, there was a scary-cute spider on my picnic table. S/he let me take some pictures.
Right now it's the brightest it's been all day, with a few patches of blue sky. Hopefully the forecasted rain stays away or minimal.
Image suppressed.
Show the scary-looking spider


17. Champs RV Resort, Whitehall, NY
Today was a great day. I could easily share twice as many photos, if doing so wouldn't overwhelm e-mail systems.
It got dark early at Roger's Rock—sundown is moving up quickly as we near the equinox. After dinner, I read a little and went to sleep to the sound of some rain starting. We got about a centimeter.
I slept through the night and woke as it was starting to lighten up a little before 6, and got on the road about 8. By then the skies were clearing.
The Ticonderoga area has a lot of interesting old architecture. There's also a park with a waterfall and covered bridge. For trekkies there's a replica of the Starship Enterprise #NCC-1701 bridge (from the original series), but unfortunately I went through too early for that to be open.
There is—surprisingly—no canal connecting Lake George to Lake Champlain. It's like 5 miles. We built canals everywhere else, it seems odd this one wasn't, between two such significant lakes.








I went on to the ferry, arriving just after it pulled off the dock. But that gave me a chance to take a few photos and visit the washroom while awaiting its return.
The ride was nice, and I got more photos and a few videos while crossing. Arriving in Vermont, Vermont-73 offered a slow assent onto a ridge that Vermont-22A followed. There were hills but they were gentler than those on the New York side of Lake Champlain. There was a lot of farmland, mostly hayfields but some corn and the occasional soybean field. A nice change of scenery from the Adirondacks.













I had lunch at G&L ("We have grinders!") General Store in Benson. I doubt that's their real slogan, but "grinders" was on the menu, which gave me a real sense of being home in New England. I did indeed have a grinder, a pastrami with provolone and some veggies that was delicious.
I continued south to Fair Haven ("Slate capital of the nation," for real), then turned westward and entered New York. Whereupon I swear Google Maps did everything it could to provide me with the hills I'd missed out on in Vermont. It found the most lumpy-bumpy terrain (micro and macro scale) it could for going down a significant hill and took me that way.




I made it to Whitehall ("Birthplace of the US Navy target="_blank"", they claim) around 1, and spent time drying everything out. There was supposed to a squall around 3, and I think there was south of here because it looked all doom and gloom that way, but other than a few sprinkles I escaped it. We'll see if I escape the evening squall.
I'm camping at Champs RV Resort, a weird little campground with a good location, and an upscale restaurant right in the campground. (Diversification!) I had dinner there, which was okay. The portion of steak was great, the preparation was... well, not as good as memory left me expecting. Still, a good meal.
There was rain as I went to dinner, but it was more like a brief sunshower than a protracted rain.
That concludes the Adirondack portion of the trip. I'll be travelling the Champlain Canal and Hudson for the next several days.




18. Moreau State Park, Queensbury, NY
This morning I woke about 7:30, by which time my tent and even food bag were mostly dry after the evening's sunshower. I made breakfast and went for an unloaded jaunt up to South Bay on Lake Champlain, about 4km ride from the campground. There's a stub of Lake Champlain that's surrounded by mountains, and south of where the Champlain Canal joins the lake, so it seems very undeveloped. That was as pretty as I remember.
After going back to pack up and load up, I headed south on the Empire Trail (NY-4/NY-Bike-9), forgoing the trail at Comstock when it went off on some questionable roads. In Fort Ann I rejoined the trail and rode that for maybe 20 or 25km, alternating between stone dust, paved trail and some dirt roads. Nearing Hudson Falls, I took a trail following the abandoned Glens Falls Canal which took me into Hudson Falls, a city with a pretty downtown where I got lunch.














It's funny how different areas are steeped in different pieces of history. This area is deep with Revolutionary War, and the colonial period before that. Biking on the Vermont-Canada border some years ago, there was a lot about the War of 1812; and I think the C&O Canal trip had a bunch on the Civil war, with a little on the Revolutionary War too.
Anyhow, I'm doing okay, eating a lot, the bike is running alright. Shifting is getting a little stiff, but after all the rain it's to be expected. I have parts should I need to fix it; for now, I'm tolerating it.
19. Friends' house, Mechanicville, NY
I passed through a bunch of suburbia today. The nicest part was riding NY-9P along the eastern shore of Saratoga Lake, which on the one side has views of the lake, marinas and mountains in the distance; on the other side, a mixture of modest lake houses, a few old cottages, and some pretentious modern McCastles.
I'm staying with friends tonight, so to squander time so I didn't arrive too early, and to ensure I didn't smell too bad while visiting, I stopped at a laundromat. I also spent an hour or so at a beach. I got in a swim... something I haven't done much of this year.
In the last hour of riding, I ended up caught in a rainstorm and arrived rather wet. A shower and dry clothes helped, and I went with my friends out to get wings for dinner. It was a nice time.
The weather is looking difficult and unpleasant tomorrow night and Wednesday, so I've booked a room at the St Charles Hotel in Hudson, NY. This means a long ride tomorrow, but I'll have a day off to recover from it.
A lot of it will be trail, a little stone dust but I believe mostly paved. The Albany-Hudson section is on the old Albany-Hudson Electric Trolley right-of-way, so although there is a lot of climb hopefully the grade won't be too bad. I'm nervous about it; the days are getting shorter and it'll get dark extra early if it's cloudy, and the rain could arrive earlier than expected.


20. St Charles Hotel, Hudson, NY
After a nice, quiet overnight with my friends Bob and Chris, I woke to find the house completely to myself. They had gone out. So I made some breakfast, packed up, and replaced the rear derailleur cable. Shifting was all messed up after yesterday's rain.
My friends came back with bagels for me, so I made one for the road and packed the rest, said goodbyes, and headed out.
The weather was overcast and ominous, as predicted, but rather than getting more-so as the day went on it instead cleared up and was a beautiful day. I followed the old Champlain Canal to its junction with the Erie Canal, where there was a spillway that used some original locks as a sluice. At one point along the way, the path went over a garbage dump placed where the long-abandoned canal originally was, I think.






There were some impressive old buildings and bridges. Several miles of the trail ran through a nice linear park between I-787 and the Hudson River, which I think might be new since I did the Erie Canal 20 years ago with mom.
Eventually I came to the river crossing, and at the end of the bridge was a park where a guy had a hot-dog cart. Location, location, location! I only had 40km (25 miles) of 100 (60) down, but it was around noon, so I got a burger.












After lunch, I found a soft front tire. I repaired that, and got back on the road about 1PM. It was a long, steady assent for the next hour, as I climbed the hill following the Albany-Hudson Electric Trail. It eventually leveled out, and at 2:20PM I was coasting down to Nassau Lake when my front tube blew out, and I lost control. Ouch.
I have some good-size superficial abrasions on my right leg. The knee got skinned more deeply, and while it wasn't a "gusher", it was leaking blood and required pressure for a few minutes. The leg and my hands were covered in dried blood before it was over.
I called mom to check in and see if she was available, in case I needed rescue. Then I walked the bike to Jimmy's Lakeside Grill, which I saw on a map as nearby. Location, location, location! They had picnic tables, so I commandeered one, got a soda, and took the wheel apart. The tube had a 4" gash in it, on the spoke side. Not reparable.
Some folks who were just leaving, John and Priscilla Shaw, asked if I was okay. I asked if they knew someone who could give me a ride to a bike shop in Hudson. They said there were two closer, in Kinderhook, and were willing to take me.
So, I quickly packed up, tore the bike apart and folded it, and into their trunk everything went. Twenty minutes later we were at Velo Domestique (soon to be renamed OK Spoke), and though they didn't have exactly the right tube, they were able to improvise a slightly smaller one.
A little later the bike was back together, so I thanked my rescuers, borrowed an allen wrench from the bike shop to fix handlebar positioning, hopped on the trail—it runs in back of the bike shop—location, location, location!—and continued my way down Kinderhook Creek and up Claverack Creek to Hudson.

Show gory leg photos









Show slightly cleaned-up but still gory wounds.

I got to the hotel about 6. After moving in, a shower came with that S&M feeling—oh, it feels so good to wash the daily sweat off... Whoo! Darn that stings!
Since then, I ran to a pharmacy nearby (location, locat—«oh, knock it off») and got dressings, bandages, anti-bacterial ointment, and ibuprofen; and I got a nice penne pasta with vodka cream sauce and chicken for dinner; and I got one ok photo of a pretty sunset over Hudson's skyline. Wounds are now neatly dressed and ready for bed.

21. Exploring Hudson, NY
Today was a rest day, so I explored the City of Hudson.
Churches are odd for me. I have no use for religion. Tend to thing we'd be better off without it, though I believe in freedom of religion—you do you, let me do me. But I respect that religion has built some very impressive works. Here in Hudson, it seems like the builders thought whoever had the highest and pointiest spire won. On the other hand, the Quaker Society of Friends has a simple, small wooden building.






While exploring, though, the question that keeps coming to mind is, how the heck did this place survive so intact? There are so many original buildings here.








In so many old downtowns, cars took hold and people moved to the suburbs. Apartments went empty, businesses couldn't survive. Vacant buildings got neglected, fell into disrepair and eventually were demolished to become parking lots for those that remained. A new equilibrium eventually formed, but by then cities were hollowed out by cars, for the convenience of their owners. There's a good overview on this topic from the Financial Times.
Riding out to Hamlin Beach on my test run, I was following the Rochester & Manitou line, an trolley line that carried people to the beaches until it was abandoned in 1925. Up near Lake George, I was riding on rail-trail that used to be electrified railways connecting all the cities, villages and hamlets from Albany up. Those died as ridership declined when people moved to cars, for their individual convenience.
The Albany-Hudson Electric Railway that I was on yesterday found a similar fate. Service ended shortly after the 1929 stock market collapse, but I assume it was already struggling before and saw further decline when everybody lost jobs and/or started pinching pennies and avoiding unnecessary travel. Cars changed everything.
But Hudson's core survived without too much of the automobile-driven wrecking ball. A lot of 3-story bricks, with shops or restaurants on the ground floor and some apartments overhead. A few 2-story commercial buildings, usually brick and maybe marble or a few columns. The occasional wood-framed Victorian slotted in here or there; there are more of those as you get toward the margins.
It's mixed zoning that allows people to live here, shop here, eat here and work here, possibly without a car. Groceries are harder: there are a few small shops (and probably higher prices), otherwise it's a trip to the outskirts. Still, it reminds me of the time we spent in San Francisco, where almost everything is a walk away.
Why and how did Hudson escape? Why didn't they knock a bunch of this down to drive a 4-lane through here? Is it that this is the county seat? Is it because it's on a rail-line convenient to NYC, supported by those who can afford to vacation here? Were preservationists active earlier here than other places? Or was it that white people with a voice live here, rather than marginalized black communities they wanted to get rid of.
To be fair, there's an area in the northwest part of the city that is all newer. Densely built to match the rest of the city, but all newer—and all residential. Did a natural disaster wipe out the original buildings? Was it a poor neighborhood that declined so bad it wasn't salvageable? A no longer needed industrial area? Is it like a tooth cavity, where once a few buildings were replaced the rest went more easily? Just the in-vogue thing to do there? I don't know.
But consider, for instance, the square/green I'm writing in. There's a gas station that's replaced one corner, and a parking lot next to my hotel that looks like it was formerly a building. Otherwise, old buildings, featuring: 3 hair salons, the hotel, several restaurants (a diner, Chinese, Mexican, Italian), a coffee shop, a dress shop, a toy shop, a few housewares shops, one "for rent", a bank, a gallery, a realty office, a fire station, and a community building (Community Tennis) that looks like it's being reimagined and reworked. Over the top of these, I'd say there's space for about 26 apartments, give or take, plus the hotel guests. Mixed zoning: businesses and the people to patronize them living together not just in harmony, but symbiotically.
This was a thriving way to build 100 years ago, and (while I don't know the fortunes of this city in between) it seems to be thriving still, or at least again. Nowadays, we zone R1 low density residential, where it's miles to drive to the nearest plaza for absolutely anything. Given the debt we and our governments are in, is this working?
It seems like in a lot of places, cars provided an irresistible sample of freedom. But like an opiates can be a useful analgesic in the right situation, it easily becomes a trap of desire for more and overindulgence. Like a would-be alcoholic who's never had a first drink, would we be perfectly content with the limited mobility of foot, bike, and train if we'd never been introduced to life with a car? Did easy and convenient mobility of the moment come with an unexpected downside of roping us into a perpetual obligation to drive everywhere?
Opiates gone unchecked wreck relationships, careers, families, savings and finances, even lives. Car culture gone unchecked has wrecked neighborhoods, homes and families, government budgets, even lives.
I grasp the appeal of the peace and quiet of living out in the country. Nobody to interfere or cause problems. I think that's part of what motivates these rides. But there's something to this urbanism that's really appealing too—being a part of society, and not being so isolated. It's worth looking at, asking why we rejected it and what we gave up when we did. Too often, the answer is a knee-jerk "because more personal liberty and freedom," but I think we'd benefit from thinking this through, and understanding the complexities and trade-offs of a real answer.
But enough philosophizing. There was a beautiful sunset.







22. Red Fox Meadows Campsite, New Paltz, NY
There was an ok sunrise out my window at the hotel this morning. I got the hotel breakfast, which was okay except the bagel which was hard like a rock. I couldn't even saw it in half to fit it in the toaster. I took it with me and chucked it in the woods for the critters to sharpen their teeth on.

View leg abrasion picture

I got on the Empire Trail and went south to the Rip Van Winkle bridge, where the signage was a bit confusing. I think the trail went down 9G on the east side of the river, but I went across the new walkway on the bridge. I've been across the bridge before, but always had to book it because it was a narrow bridge with a lot of traffic. With the new walkway hung off one side, I could take my time and some pictures, although every time a large truck went by I could feel the bridge shinny and rattle. I'm sure it's engineered fine, but it's still disconcerting.

I got on 9W and headed south. The highway paralleled a rail line so the hills weren't bad, and traffic was light once out got out of Catskill. So light, in fact, that there's a few places where the road became alternating one-way traffic to go under rail overpasses.
That took me into Saugerties, where I stopped at a diner for lunch, a chicken cordon bleu. I was thinking the sandwich, but the waitress assured me the panini was better so that's what I ended up with.
Next I stopped at Saugerties Pharmacy for advice on my leg. With the protective suntanned layers gone, I was worried about sunburn. The pharmacist advised covering the worst scrape, the kneecap, with taped-on gauze, and to put zinc oxide (which I already carry) on the rest of it.




That resolved, I got on Railroad Street and continued south. That merged onto Kings Highway, and from there to Kingston the people in cars were nutty assholes. There wasn't any bike lane, so I was riding a few feet from the edge of the road, and they were coming by with inches of clearance. Multiple times oncoming cars had to slam on their brakes to avoid head-on collisions with drivers in a rush to get past, even though I was cooking with a nice tailwind at 30km/h (18mph). When I pulled even more into the lane because there was an intimidating deep gully on the edge of the road, idiots blared their horns and raced around, gunning their engines to show their displeasure, when I was able to get out of their way. I saw more impatience and reckless idiocy in this span than the whole rest of the trip.
So I was very glad when I got to Kingston and moved onto some quieter, calmer side roads, which lead to the even better Wallkill Valley Rail Trail.


The trail is gorgeous. It's mostly running through very wooded area, so nicely shaded and cool. It alternates between cuts, fills, and following the terrain, with views of lakes, ponds, forested hills and granite. Some areas were heavily mined for natural cement limestone, so there are some glory holes (abandoned mine openings) along the trail, although they are fenced off. The trail also passes a number of massive old furnaces, several with multiple kilns, for firing the limestone they extracted.


A little beyond that, the trail went over a high trestle over Rondout Creek. The long-abandoned D&H Canal, connecting the Delaware and Hudson rivers, would have once passed underneath too.


While stopped there, a local named Steve stopped to talk. I had just been trying (again) to reach the campground to see if they had space; still no answer and no callback. Steve assured me there was a little place just up the trail where a lot of people camped, which seemed like a better option than going down into the valley not knowing if I'd have to come back up.
So here I am at Red Fox Meadows Campsite. It's got a very hippy, earth-conscious feel; I see evidence of Burning Man cultural influence. They have a little trailside cafe, a meadow you can camp in. I gather a few artists live on the property and they hold music festivals on the weekends. There's even a recently-built shower. It reminds me of a smaller Brushwood Folklore Center, where I've been to the Starwood festival outside Jamestown.


23. 'Gunks Campground, Gardiner, NY
Today was a short 21 miles, even with an off-trail jaunt to a supermarket and hardware store in New Paltz, and taking the long route through Gardiner to the campground.
The Wallkill Valley Rail Trail continued to be a lovely trail, although not as much interesting stuff along it. There was one trestle over the Wallkill River that was nicely appointed, with raised areas and seating on the side of the path.



As I got closer to the Shawangunk mountains, I started getting some lovely views of the cliffs on the other side of the valley.
The campground is full this weekend, although right now it's still quiet; most people haven't arrived yet, including my Opal, who is on her way down to spend the weekend with me.



This wraps up the second part of the trip, coming down the Hudson Valley. I have two days of rest here with Opal, then on Monday I'll be starting westward through Catskill Mountains and Finger Lakes to home. I'm looking forward to my mom joining me and travelling with me some of that way. There will be extreme cribbage matches.
24. Visit to The Bridge over the Hudson
Opal and I visited Poughkeepsie and walked the Bridge Over The Hudson, got frustrated with traffic in New Paltz, and had dinner at the Mountain Brauhaus. The food was delicious, Opal says the beer is good but not super special.


25. Hike to Hamilton Point in Minnewaska State Park
Today, Opal and I went for a hike in Minnewaska State Park, walking around the lake, out the Hamilton Point carriage trail, using Blueberry Run as a short-cut to come in on Castle Rock. Opal did not like the rock scrambles on Blueberry Run.








26. Sleepy Hollow Campground, Phoenicia, NY
Today, I think we both woke to the patter of rain of on the tent. It rained lightly on and off, deciding to go harder when I finally got up and tried to make breakfast. But by the time we had eaten and struck camp, the rains had stopped and we went our separate ways.
I had a tough 3km uphill ride from the campground, then Clove Road and a few others took me to High Point on mostly gentle downhills, with only a few ascents.



High Point is where the D&H Canal crossed the Rondout River. The aqueduct is gone but there's a canal museum so I stopped in for a few minutes to cool down and rest.
Next I stopped briefly at the falls, which has a hydro dam on it.




From there I got on the O&W rail trail, which was pretty rough as rail trails go. It's a lovely trail for walking and mountain bikes would be fine, but not really suitable for my situation. It was, thankfully, a short jaunt on the trail.
Soon I was on NY-213, which gradually climbed toward the Ashokan Reservoir. It alternated between slow, gentle climbs and short uphills mixed with flat areas to so it didn't feel like a huge climb. I crossed the dam to Ashokan, and had to backtrack a little on NY-28 to get on the Ashokan Rail Trail trailhead, but it was worth it. It was shaded and in good condition, although they use chip stone that's pea-size instead of the more common stone dust. In a few areas, the trail ran near the water and there were nice views of the lake.









After that, I was on NY-28 to the campground. At just after 3 I spied a hot-dog vendor, who thankfully hadn't packed up yet so I got a delicious Sabrett dog, the brand that's popular in this area.
The campground was shortly after that. It's a nice enough campground, but since I'm in a tent they've stuck me in this shitty little tent area with crappy lawn that's tucked in between two sets of forest, one with a big pond of stagnant water not 30 feet into the woods. It's infested with mosquitoes and bugs, humid, and has no breeze.



I'm writing this while sitting at one of the many empty RV sites along the river. The light is brighter, the sound of the river covers up some of the sounds of traffic on NY-28, there's fewer bugs, and there's a cool, fresh breeze coming by with the river.
I swear some of these RV-oriented places are either completely clueless about tent camping, or don't like us and actively try to make it miserable so we don't come back.


I tried going to a plaza down the road with a pizza shop and brewery, thinking I could grab dinner in a less infested place. The pizza shop was closed and the brewery didn't seem to have food (apparently they do, but they only had beer listed on their signs, so I didn't know). I came back and had a bagel, because I'm not super hungry. Hopefully I won't wake up too hungry in the middle of the night.
27. Andes Hotel, Andes, NY
Today was another day with more beautiful and interesting photos than I can fit in an e-mail.
After breakfast, I said goodbye to the beavers living next door and headed west. A ways up the road I started seeing signs for the Copperhead Sex Retreat, which (once I got a little closer to read the sign better) I wasn't too surprised was actually the Copperhead Spa Retreat.
Just beyond that was the exit point for the Shandaken tunnel, an 18 mile long, tunnel built in 1918-1925 that carries water from Schoharie Reservoir (which would normally make its way to the Mohawk River in the Amsterdam area) and instead dumps it into Esopus Creek, to eventually flow into the Ashokan Reservoir for New York City. Where the tunnel runs under a mountain, it's said to be 2630 feet deep—10 feet shy of a half-mile.
There was a lot of steady up, but at Highmount there was about a kilometer (half-mile) of steeper up that I climbed, with rests, in low gear. Reaching the top, I crossed into Delaware County and the Delaware Watershed.








I took it easy on the steep downhill to Fleischmann's, a hamlet that's seen better days but seems to still be trying. While doing my laundry, I took a few pictures of some of the ornate houses with spires that were being kept up. While doing laundry, mom caught up with me and we transferred most of the weight I was carrying to her car. She also brought watermelon and other snacks, so effectively, laundry was also lunch.





Laundry done, we headed west to Margaretsville, where we stopped to get more dressings for wounds (I'd rather have extras than have to go hunting for a pharmacy in the middle of nowhere) and some bagels. There was also a restaurant called the Bun & Cone, and just in case of foreigners or illiterate folks, there's a big cardboard ice cream cone on the side of the building. Mom and I indulged before setting off again.
Now on NY-28 & 30, I passed an old stone schoolhouse that I think served one of the hamlets that was sunk for the Pepactin Reservoir. Soon after that, NY-30 went off down the reservoir, and I continued on NY-28 up hills to Andes. The climbs started gentle, following some brooks and later some small streams. There was a lot agriculture here: some pastures with horses, some hayfields, a few with hay drying in neat, golden rows. A few fields were abandoned and had been taken over by goldenrod and wildflowers.





The hills got stepper, and eventually there was a tiring climb up Palmer Hill, but the view at the top was good payoff. It would have been an exhausting climb if I had to carry all my gear with me; I am glad it was all riding in mom's car. From there it was a steep descent into Andes, a kitchy little hamlet that doesn't even have cell service. (The hotel, thankfully, offers WiFi.)
Mom and I had a delicious dinner in the hotel restaurant. Mom had penne with vodka sauce, which was more marinara-ish than a cream sauce but delicious nevertheless (I got a few bites). I had salmon with grilled asparagus and a baked potato. All was prepared perfectly, and beats yesterday's bagel dinner.











28. Tall Pines Campground, Bainbridge, NY
Mom and I started the day with a nice breakfast at Rosalino's, the diner in Andes, which is identified by a plain white painted sign with the word "DINER" painted in red in block letters hanging above the doorway.
It was a foggy morning, which had its own beauty. At times views just sort of materialized out of the fog as I rode.
The St James Church would be an impressive stone church in city like Hudson, and seemed out of place along a rural stretch of NY-28. Chilled from the damp fog, I had to put on a jacket while I took some photos. A brook ran nearby, and on the other side there was an antiques dealer who had a whole menagerie of colorful metal animal sculptures.









We passed through Delhi and onto County Road 14, which started with about 8km (5 miles) of climb. The views ahead weren't always much, but every time I looked back, there were amazing meadows and farms gracing the landscape I'd passed through.
The 8km was a good investment, though, because the next 17km was downhill or flat, with only the occasional knoll. The road was in good condition, although the surface was a coarse stone that sapped energy and my hands and butt got a sort of numbish feeling from the continuous rattling. Still, the views and downhill were well worth it.






I was glad of smooth asphalt when we arrived at NY-357, and I quickly made the few klicks to Franklin, NY. Like the hamlet of Treadwell that I'd passed through on County-14, Franklin had a lot of interesting old architecture, some well-cared for, other in decline.
It was noon so we stopped for lunch at The Tulip and the Rose Cafe for lunch. The sign said open but it looked empty, but it looked cute and festive outside so we tried it anyway. I was surprised, when we walked in, to see Arabic in several places on the walls; it turns out the cafe is run by a nice Islamic gentleman who makes amazing food. Mom had pancakes with peach cobbler (I tried a bite, it was delicious) and I had chicken shish, which was very tasty.






After that it was a pretty unexciting ride to the campground. NY-357 had rolling hills, we stopped to take pictures of the Sydney Dam, and River Road was recently asphalted and in lovely condition for biking.
At the campground we set up next to the river, which although slow-moving is actually flowing. There's a pool, so we took a dip this afternoon, although I was polite and showered to wash sweat and road grime off me first.
We had a simple mac-and-cheese dinner, then ran into town with the car for some ice cream.






29. Country Hills Campground, Marathon, NY
Today involved trouble of my own making.
I was really looking forward to visiting Bowman Lake State Campground again. I have fond memories of staying there in 2013 on my first trip. I figured it would be late in the season so the snack shack and beach might not be operating, but I never conceived the whole park would be shutdown for the season. Unfortunately, it shutdown Tuesday, after Labor Day.
I had two short days planned because of the hills involved in getting to and from Bowman, which is good because there's nothing else nearby and the best solution seemed to be doing a double day. Not easy with the heat and hills, but accomplished.
If I'd only checked, I could have routed via Chemung Forks, which would have added distance but is much less hilly, and that campground is still open.
So the ride tone changed through the day. Early on I was on some recent chip-seal; the travel lanes were miserably bumpy and the bike lane, though still smooth, was buried by loose chips. The highway folks were even getting ready to clean up the chips today... just not in time.


After 8km (5 miles) of that, I got on some smooth asphalt and morale improved. There were several farms, lots of goldenrod-filled meadows and hillsides, and a few lovely ponds along the way.
After Oxford, the hills got steeper and more frequent to get to Bowman, but I was still excited to get there.




After learning Bowman was closed, it turned into a death march with a marathon of hills as I headed toward Marathon. And though there are a few hamlets, there's not much there—not even a diner. I think I passed a gas station/convenience store that might have had a to-go sandwich if that's what I'd been looking for. Instead, I ate some snacks mom and I had with us, and kept going.
I made it to Marathon about 3, and stopped in a diner to cool down and get much-needed sustenance. Mom had gone ahead to acquire a campsite and get settled; my morale was improved when she let me know we had a place to go.


I think I got to the campground about 4:30, and spent a little time just cooling down and resting. We then went to get showers, and when we were done the sky was looking a bit overcast; I got to setting up my tent. A little later doomy-looking clouds moved in, so mom suggested we set up a canopy she brought for over the picnic table, but we were a bit too late and only got it half-assembled before the winds and rain started.
I hid in my tent, organized stuff and tended wounds; mom rode out the squall in the car. On the positive side, the squall ushered in cooler temperatures—the cool is a wonderful reprieve.
When the squall passed, we finished putting up the canopy, made dinner (chicken teriyaki and a chicken-flavor-noodle thing that became chicken noodle soup after adding too much water), and had a game of cribbage (she won again).
I'm exhausted, I'm going to bed now.



These 3 photos are courtesy of Pat Barella.
30. Fillmore Glen State Park, Moravia, NY
Things are back in order today.
Mom and I packed up our wet gear this morning, and although our goal was north, we headed south. The route Google came up with was a bit circuitous, but avoided climbs, and did mostly achieve it.
The first few miles had a little up, but nothing major; along the way, some cows came to greet me—perhaps they thought I had their breakfast—and in one area we passed some down wires from yesterday's storms.
But after about 8km (5 miles), I turned west and I started getting a lot of gentle downhill. Reaching NY-38, I turned north and went through Harford, a place that looks like it's seen better days, then passed into agricultural areas with meadows, soybean and corn fields.


That brought me to a rail trail, which passed through wetlands and along a pond, where I met mom at Dryden Lake Park. After a rest, snacks and enjoying views of the lake, mom went off to do errands while I continued north.
The trail passed some lovely rivers, through a few villages, eventually leaving me to rejoin NY-38. It was a nice road with a good bike lane; the terrain rolled a few kilometers to Groton, then began about 14km (9 miles) of steady, slow decline. Having been informed that mom was at the campsite with a rotisserie chicken, I booked it and was there in about 40 minutes.








The campground, Fillmore Glen, is named for former president Millard Fillmore, who was from the area. It's got nice, spacious lawn to camp on, a lovely waterfall that's an easy walk, and the bathrooms are some of the nicest I've seen in state parks.
I'm glad for the short & easy day, because I had expected the two short days would provide some relaxing afternoons, especially for mom since she's only got a few days out here camping.
And an update on my leg: the wounds are healing nicely.




View leg abrasion picture

31. Hejamata Campground, Port Byron, NY
We woke early to grey skies and the sound of a garbage truck making its rounds. The campground, while not nearly full, was also not nearly empty; there were a variety of other folks staying. The ones dearest to my heart was the role-playing group, which had spent Friday night playing around the campfire. It seems to me apropos to be outdoors sitting around a fire while you're role playing medieval orc-slaying adventurers sitting around fires. Maybe less chance for distractions, too.
The ride itself went quickly. NY-38 stayed along Owasco lake for a while, with the occasional cascading waterfall in the bushes along the road. Eventually the road distanced itself from the lakeshore and climbed the divide between the lakes. At the top, I migrated onto some side roads and had a gentle descent into Auburn, along with many nice views.







I met mom at a park in Auburn for snacks, then finished the last 12km (8 miles) to the campground. In that span, I passed what looked like an old schoolhouse (or possibly a church, but it lacked a steeple) that has become the Ladder Men Motorcycle Club. There was also a very cute one-lane, stone-arch tunnel under a railway.
Tomorrow, mom and I part ways again, as she heads east to her home, and I head west to mine. I have one last cribbage game tonight to avenge myself.




32. Home!
At dusk yesterday, heavy rains came to Hejamata campground. It's probably good: despite playing 3 games of cribbage yesterday, I failed to beat mom once. Rains were a good excuse not to get whipped again.
The rains went an hour or two, but not all night. Nevertheless, everything was wet in the morning, and skies were overcast, but at least our site wasn't flooded like some lower-lying areas.
We packed up our final time, separating my stuff from hers as we went. Then, after making sure she wasn't stuck in mud or something, I followed her out with my fully-loaded (though lighter than normal, as food was dwindling) bike.
I was going to try an alternate route to Lyons, hoping for a change of scenery, but the bridge over the canal on Armitage Road was out, so I ended up taking NY-31 through Clyde to Lyons, where I hopped on the Empire Trail briefly to avoid a detour on the road. In general, though, I tried to stay off the Empire Trail in hopes of avoiding problems caused by wet stone dust getting into everything.
After the detour, it was back to NY-31 all the way to Perinton, with a stop for lunch at Black Hart BBQ in Palmyra. They make a good pulled chicken sandwich and decent salt potatoes.




In Perinton, I got on the Rochester, Syracuse & Eastern Trail, intending to take that into Fairport and come in NY-31F. However, I hit a third detour on the trail, and got shunted up Ayrault Road and ended up on... can you guess? Yep, back on NY-31 again. Dammit!
I took that into Schoen Place, where I was finally able to break free of the pull of NY-31, and make my way home.
Along the way today I met Michael, who passed me on the highway. He's heading all the way to California, wild camping as he goes. He left Boston 5 days ago—that's some amazing miles, especially considering the hills (or are they valleys?) going through Massachusetts. I offered him crash space for the night, but he declined, wanting to get in more miles and get further west to get away from storms coming up the east coast.
And so with that, it's the end of the third leg, and the end of this year's trip. I hope you've enjoyed!
A. Cue Sheets & Resources
- Cue sheets: metric (km) or imperial (miles)
- Route sheets: metric (km) or imperial (miles)
- Route resources (campgrounds, bike shops and grocery stores)
- Calendar
B. Maps
These maps represented the planned route. Actual route may vary due to detours, misroutes, changes of plans, or my whims. Additionally, although the waypoints are the same, changes to Google's map routing algorithms may produce variations in the shown routes.- Rochester, NY to Utica, NY
- Adirondack Railroad to Tupper Lake
- A few days around Tupper and Saranac.
- Tupper Lake, NY to Ticonderoga, NY via Long Lake, Blue Mountain Lake, Indian Lake, and Lake Luzerne following the Hudson River and Lake George.
- Ticonderoga, NY to Bainbridge, NY via Whitehall, Albany, Hudson, Kingston and New Paltz
- Andes, NY to Rochester, NY via Delhi, Marathon and Moravia